When you hear 'Chinelo Bally' you'd be forgiven for thinking of last year's Great British Sewing Bee winner. Inexplicably, Chinelo wasn't actually crowned the winner, but her enviable talent and creativity when it comes to freehand drafting and all things sewing, have certainly got her far since the show. When Pavillion asked if I wanted to review a project from her brand new book, Freehand Fashion, I couldn't resist having a go at chanelling the legend that is Chinelo!
However, having to fit this project into the margins of my time resulted in a major error. I chose to make the Hi-Low Top for speed's sake, knowing full well it wouldn't suit my shape. Although I enjoyed the freehand drafting process very much, it's a crying shame that I won't be wearing this top.
There were so many interesting things about the process though, that I barely know where to start! The book first takes you through drafting blocks for pretty much any pattern piece and then it moves onto the projects where you can put your blocks into practice. Drafting your pattern pieces involves taking detailed measurements that you plot onto muslin fabric or paper, drawing lines or curves to join them all together. Best of all, seam allowances are included at the plotting stage, so you don't have to worry about adding them in later!
I played it safe and drafted my top onto paper, as I felt drafting onto fabric could have resulted in additional waste. In hindsight, I should have gone with fabric and treated it as a proper muslin, to test the fit along the way. Naively, due to the number of measurements required, I thought fit was a sure thing. Turns out it's not and in the end I was pretty unhappy with the bust dart placement, the armhole shape, the way the neckline sits and the overall bagginess. I ended up having to take the side it by a couple of centrimetres each side and it's still not a great fit.
The biggest lesson I learned from this experience is that having Chinelo's book doesn't automatically equip you with Chinelo's skills. There's still a lot that can go wrong when drafting all-important curves, but nothing a bit of practice can't rectify, I'm sure.
The fact remains that I thoroughly enjoyed the meticulous drafting process, which I found oddly therapautic. With Chinelo's guidance, I'm inspired to nail freehand drafting, if only to tackle some of the more advanced and seriously stonking patterns in the book!
If you'd like to have a go and stretch your skills, then Pavillion have offered up a free copy to a lucky reader in the UK. Leave a comment with your email address below, by midnight (GMT) on Saturday 21 November!
Don't just take my word on all this though, English Girl at Home and Pavillion Craft have already shares their reviews, with more projects coming from:
The Foldine - Sunday 15 November
Lady Sewalot - Monday 16 November
Almond Rock - Tuesday 17 November
House of Pinheiro - Wednesday 18 November
I've been eyeing this book up all week!
ReplyDeleteFrankie
knitwitsowls@gmail.com
Excited to try this approach
ReplyDeleteThe top looks pretty good to me, despite your reservations! The whole idea sounds terrifyingly daunting so would love to have the book and see if I dare try it out....
ReplyDeleteI do like your top. The fabric is lovely. I am sure that it takes a bit of practise to be as good as Chinelo. I thought that the garments she created on TGBSB were outstanding. I too have no idea why she didn't win. She was by far the best sewer and had great designs. I am in love with that black and white striped dress. Her cutting/design skills are stunning. I would love to win a copy of this book just to tackle that. Definitely added it to the list for Santa. :) Oh and my email is: ligeia2001 at hotmail dot com.
ReplyDeleteI loved Chinelo,she was definitely robbed! aeb990@outlook.com
ReplyDeleteomg I love the concept of this! Look fascinating! I think I'll need to buy this
ReplyDeleteI love chinelo's way of sewing, the idea of freedom from patterns is one I'm really interested in! Thanks for a great post.
ReplyDeletewispy_water_faerie@hotmail.co.uk
Oooh, now that's a book worth adding to my modest little collection. We need more Chinelos in this world and this book may help it happen.
ReplyDeleteMmm I'm not sure about freehand drafting. In class we draped a bodice block and I was never happy with it. I like drafting so maybe this is a good thing to try! My email address is amcclure@talk21.com.
ReplyDeleteLovely fabric <3 I think it turned out well :) Is the comp. open to residents of Ireland too? Or is it strictly just the U.K.?
ReplyDeleteI'd love to have a go at freehand drafting. I love the back drape of your top!
ReplyDeleteOh I'd really love to have a go with this book. Loved her in the Sewing Bee! hilarywilling@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteI haven't heard of this book, but it sounds awesome! I'm adding it to my list.
ReplyDeleteI really like the idea, but all the pictures I've seen of the projects seem for someone considerably more glam and less pear shaped than myself. I could give some selfless sewing a go I guess!
ReplyDeleteI think the top looks nice but hey hoo. I would to win book.......was booked on a day class with chinelo but it got cancelled the night b4......was so gutted as was my birthday present!!!!!!!! Keep up the good work xx
ReplyDeleteP.s email is cmschulz2002@yahoo.com xx
ReplyDeleteI'd love to have a go at freehand drafting - I watched the demonstration of the Lutterloh system at SewBrum and it was so easy, despite initially looking very confusing. The only problem was that a lot of the pattern designs were quite dated and the ones in the book look much more modern!
ReplyDeleteI need that date night dress in my life! This book looks so amazing and if it can give me even one tenth of the skills Chinelo demonstrated on the GBSB I will be forever happy!
ReplyDeleteH.
I've got my eye on this book, love chinelo's style. Jess.m.adams at gmail dot com
ReplyDeleteI think the top looks great. It's a lovely shape and I really like the back.
ReplyDeleteWould love to make that black & white maxi dress. kiwainwright@hotmail.co.uk
ReplyDeleteThis sounds fascinating to try. Bumped into Chinello in a shop in Goldhawks lane- lovely lady who graciously put up with our "ooh are you Chinello from the GBSB questions!"
ReplyDeleteI love the idea of being able to draft my own patterns but am nervous about starting so have been eyeing this book. Maybe Santa will think of it?? Here's hoping mandymandy75@hotmail.com
ReplyDeleteWould love to learn Chinelo's techniques, thanks for the great giveaway! Pati x
ReplyDeleteWow, how exciting! Loved watching chinelo and looking forward to seeing more!
ReplyDeleteThe idea of free hand drafting scares the heck out of me - which means I should definitely give it a go, if only to attempt that black and white dress! Email is rjwoodward357 (at) googlemail.com
ReplyDeleteI caught a glimpse of that book before and was wondering about it... I have been making my own patterns for years but I draft in the usual way, by drafting a sloper on paper from measurements and using that to draft different patterns. I was wondering about Chinello's method while watching her on GBSB...
ReplyDeleteI would love to have a go. cawmags@tiscali.co.uk
ReplyDeleteI think the top looks amazing on you from the back but I can't tell the front because you've crossed your arms! Definitely planning to add this to my Christmas list!!!
ReplyDeleteSounds like you learnt loads & its inspired you! Top looks great & the book looks fantastic.
ReplyDeleteI'm really excited about this book! I can't wait to get hold of a copy :)
ReplyDeleteWhat an intersting learning curve. That black and white stripy dress in the book looks amazing! Just my style. I'd love yo have chinelos skills!
ReplyDeleteI was so impressed with Chinello's skills on GBSB. I would love to learn about her techniques. The pictures in the book are very much my style!
ReplyDeleteWow I'd love to draft my own patterns! How exciting! katherinewallis31@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteHave put this on my Christmas list so if I don't get lucky here, maybe I will then :-) jmurdison at Hotmail dot com
ReplyDeleteVery interesting! The projects look gorgeous. I will have to give this book a try!
ReplyDeleteI can't wait to grab a copy for myself :)) great review!
ReplyDeleteLoved watching Chinelo on the show. Fascinating to see a different approach. Would love to try it myself! joannefox330 at googlemail.com
ReplyDeleteI really like your top and think you should just wear it - it looks so comfy! I'm very intrigued by Chinelo's method of pattern drafting and can't wait to read her book.
ReplyDeleteI found Chinelo's method on the sewing bee mesmerising! I couldn't believe the amazing fit she got each time she made something. I would love this book!
ReplyDeleteI'm sure my first effort wouldn't look nearly as good as yours! I'd love to try, though, and would be excited to win a copy of the book.
ReplyDeleteOnly after several years of sewing have I finally found what suits my shape so just take the drafting process from your make. All learning is good. jo x
ReplyDeleteI loved her creations on the GBSB - I particularly loved that purple velvet dress she did. Great stuff!
ReplyDeletemancunianvintage(@)yahoo.co.uk
I think you're being a teeny bit harsh on that top. The back is stunning.
ReplyDeleteI think that the top looks lovely on you, and it looks so comfortable too.
ReplyDeleteI love Chinelo and I'm desperate to try her techniques. I hope I can do them justice!
ReplyDeleteLove the look of this book and your finished top x
ReplyDeleteIain.ross30 at gmail dot com
It seems a shame that you seem to have rushed the project and also created a paper draft first which isn't really in the spirit of the book. I do love the top and the finish that you have.
ReplyDeleteWould love to learn these techniques, definitely a book for my Christmas list. nic_bostock@yahoo.co.uk
ReplyDeleteWhat a wonderful feeling of freedom that this book would give, can't wait to see all the new and exciting projects all you clever blogland sewists come up with!
ReplyDeleteI'd love a chance to win a copy of Chinelo's book. I thoroughly enjoyed watching GBSB and thought her technique and fit was amazing! clarembentley@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteAh i would love to learn pattern drafting like this. My email is retro-wren@hotmail.co.uk
ReplyDeleteI think your top looks lovely! Would love to win and try it for myself :) magnificent.thread@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteI was fascinated watching her on GBSB! iambobbin@hotmail.com x
ReplyDeleteSome of the dresses in the book look amazing, definitely worth a go! thewardrobearchitect@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteThat book looks so cool! Sounds very scary though, i think i would do the same and draft it on paper first!
ReplyDeleteCararbolkeax@hotmail.co.uk
I am intrigued and would love to give it a go! Thank you for your review! n.branderhorst@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteThe projects in this book are so beautiful! I'd love to try them thetelltaletasha@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteI was also mystified that Chinelo did not win Sewing Bee. Glad to see that she has written a book to show how to use her technique. I'm never happy with ready-made patterns because the fit is never right. I always have to make lots of adjustments. I'd really like to give free hand drafting a go.
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