**Edit: there's some invaluable twin needle advice coming through in the comments!**
Remember my metallic Briar I made not so long ago? Well, despite my long-standing flirtation with jersey fabric, that project was the first time I used my twin needle. I was really impressed with the professional finish it produced, so why did it take me so long to have a go? Because trying new things is sometimes scary, especially when you're not sure how involved they might be. Like most things we procrastinate about though, using a twin needle is surprisingly easy, so I figured I'd share some tips to encourage you to give it a go as well.
I use a Brother Innovis 10A - generously gifted to me by Bamber Sewing Machines - which already came with the accessories I needed: twin needle, zigzag foot and extra spool pin. I'm sure these can all be bought separately if necessary though. Different machines may vary regarding some of the steps I'm sharing
below, so if in doubt, do have a quick look at your instruction manual.
Twin needle
Zigzag foot
Step 1: Replace your regular needle with the twin needle - this is exactly the same principle as changing any needle - and attach your zigzag foot.
Step 2: Thread the left needle as you would normally thread any needle, using your regular upper thread.
Step 3: Place your extra spool pin onto the bobbin winder shaft and top with your second spool of thread.
Your machine should now look like this, with the two spools of thread and a twin needle in place.
Step 4: Thread the right needle using your extra spool of thread. Again, thread it in the same way you would a normal needle, but don't pass the thread through the needle bar thread guide this time.
Step 5: Go ahead and start sewing - it's as easy as that! Below I've demonstrated what a zigzag and a straight stitch look like. Pretty neat, no? I used a regular stitch length and tension for this medium weight scrap of jersey, but you may need to experiment with both depending on the thickness and texture of your fabric.
I hope this is helpful to twin needle virgins out there, but if you're a twin needle pro please do chip in with any further advice!
1. One important thing is to make sure the width of the needle is right for your machine- the spacing between the needles should be no wider than the widest zigzag setting your machine is capable of or you can damage the throat plate and bobbin case. Your manual might tell you how wide this is, but if in doubt run a piece of paper through your machine (with no thread in) on the widest zigzag, with a short stitch length. You can then measure the width of the zigzag or take the paper with you when you go to buy the needle and compare it.
ReplyDelete2. Sometimes the bobbin thread may pull too tightly between the two rows of top thread and cause tunnelling- when you get a bump between the two top rows of stitching as the bobbin thread pulls them inwards. Normally loosening the bobbin tension corrects this, but on lightweight fabrics sewing with a piece of tissue paper on the bottom can help stabilise it.
3. Some machines, particularly older models like my Singer 348, can actually take two normal needles in the needle clamp, so no need to buy an expensive twin needle! Check your manuals folks!
As you can probably guess, I like to sew with double needles! Gives a much cleaner finish than zigzagging on hems and necklines.
Thanks so much for chipping in with this Ginny! Invaluable advice here!
DeleteThank you, I have never used a twin needle but am going to try now. This was much more help than the manual, I couldn't find anything about how to do it.
DeleteThanks so much for this Marie! I've always liked the look of it but been too scared to give it a go as I just didn't understand how it could work (TWO needles and spools?!) but just reading this has made it seem simple. I need to buy a twin needle now...
ReplyDeleteI was exactly the same Fiona, glad this has inspired you ;o)
DeleteNow that's how easy using a twin needle should be. I too recently sewed a Briar - I spent over 2 hours to get it to work properly as it kept skipping stitiches. In the end, I had one bobbin running clockwise, the other anticlockwise and I found I had to use a Universal rather than a Stretch twin needle.
ReplyDeleteMy machine now isn't working properly at all - so I'm wondering if that possibly had more to do with my troubles :-)
Oh gosh, hope you get your machine sorted soon and that you have another go at using your twin needle. Good luck!
DeleteGreat post m'dear. Only one thing to add. My local sewing machine repair shop told me there are a variety of sized twin needles but you're not varying the size of each needle, but instead its the distance between the needles that increases so your two rows are more spaced out. Cool huh?
ReplyDeleteThanks for this Amy, I had no idea! Very cool indeed!
DeleteI definitely wouldn't call myself a twin needle pro, but I would say that when you're using a twin needle to make sure that the right side of your fabric is facing up since the zig-zag stitch comes out bobbin-side and the 2 rows of stitching come out upper thread-side. I only mention it because I know when I sew hems that I usually have the inside of the hem facing up and the bobbin thread actually ends up on the outside of the garment hem.
ReplyDeleteOooh yes, very good point! Thank you ;o)
DeleteI have a Singer Rumina and religiously test twin needle stitches on scraps first... most fabrics recieve the twin needle stitching better if I lengthen the stitches to 3.5 or 4. Also sewing slowly can avoid skipped stitches so no racing for the finishline even on long straight sections!
ReplyDeleteas fate would have it, have just bought a new machine and a twin needle (fortunately, the machine already accomodates two spools). Your post came at the right moment, and I really appreciate it!
ReplyDeletewww.craftseverywhere.blogspot.com
Fab, let me know how you get on!
DeleteHi, Marie, thanks for this! I am thinking of buying a twin needle for my machine, so this and all the other tips will come in very handy when i take the plunge!
ReplyDeleteGlad to hear it!
DeleteTwin Needles are my best friend!
ReplyDeleteI'll bet ;o)
DeleteThanks for this. I always wondered how it would work, but never bothered to look it up - and as I have the exact same machine as you, you've saved me the bother. Perfect and thank you! Just need to actually sew some jersey now...
ReplyDeleteReally pleased it's useful, don't be scared of jersey...it's not that tricky ;o)
DeleteAnother tip for sewing with twin needles, ONLY BACKSTITCH BY HAND! I've too many times made the mistake of backstitching by foot, so to speak, and I've broken so many twin needles doing this. And they don't come cheap...
ReplyDeleteOooh, thanks Johanna...top tip!
Deletehow funny - ive just pulled my twin needles out today & taken a deep breath before giving it a go. ive had these darn things for years & never used them. {those days are over}! thanks for the tut x
ReplyDeleteHope it went well!
DeleteThanks for this-- I've only tried using a twin needle once, and it was a disaster! I'll definitely try it again with these tips, because I do like the finished look of it.
ReplyDeleteOh dear, hope it works out better for you next time! There's some excellent advice in the comments ;o)
DeleteSo silly, but I've been afraid to try my twin needle! This makes it seem so straightforward-- thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteWait... So does this mean ANY machine can use a twin needle? I've been holding back trying anything because I thought I needed a more advanced machine, but now I'm inclined to get an extra spool pin and twin needle and give it a go!
ReplyDeleteHmmm, not sure if any machine can! I would definitely make sure your make and model has a twin needle function before investing...
DeleteI've never actually tried doing a twin zig zag stitch but that looks pretty cool!
ReplyDeleteI don't know if you're supposed to, but it worked for me...hehe!
DeleteHmmm... I never thought of using it for a twin zig zag stitch...[runs off to test it out]
ReplyDeletePlease don't blame me if it doesn't work...I just tried it out on a whim and it seemed to work ok!
DeleteCool! thanks for the tip. I had heard of it but never actually got around to trying it. One more thing in my sewing toolbox!
ReplyDeleteThere's always so many new techniques to try out!
DeleteI did not know they existed, I might give it a go one day. I do like the look of it.
ReplyDeleteYou learn something new every day ;o)
DeleteAh thanks so much for this! I've had hit and miss results with twin needles, and just the other day I gave up in frustration, mainly because of bobbin tension issues. You have some really good tips here - and you have the same sewing machine as me. I just went and had a look and it turns out I do have a spare spool pin - how did I miss that?! Thanks again, off to have another go...
ReplyDeleteGood luck Emily, hope it works better for you now!
Deletethank you for this! I tried using my twin needle and it ended up breaking in action as it hit the presser foot. Not sure what I did wrong except maybe not checking the stitch width...i shall try again!
ReplyDeleteYes, do definitely check the stitch width, hope you have better luck next time!
DeleteI'm using a 4 mm twin needle and I found that some of my decorative stitches go too far to the left and would hit the presser foot. I always test the first couple of stitches by hand and then use the foot pedal to make sure that I'm staying within the sides of the presser foot.
DeleteI think I need to invest in a twin needle now that I am foraying into the world of sewing with knits! Your examples look so clean and finished!
ReplyDeleteHere's another tip.
ReplyDeleteWhen working with a twin needle for the first time, I asked for a second spool in the same colour. My sewing teacher told me that it wasn't necessary to buy a second spool, especially when you have to use little thread (I used the needle to hem a long-sleeved shirt).
She suggested I winded a second bobbin and put it onto the spool pin. This worked just as well.
Awesome post Marie! You've almost convinced me to have a go (I've got some residual fear surrounding twin needles!) xx
ReplyDeleteHello! Thanks for this - excellent advice both in your post and the comments. I used to own an old Toyota, and used double needles often. I treated myself to a lovely new Janome a few years ago, however - and it hates twins! I just cannot get on with a double needle at all on it, and I can't find any advice. I can't ask the dealer, either, as I bought it on the net. I'll try again, using your tips. Wish me luck! thanks again x
ReplyDeleteI know this od anioła post but i have also got a Janome sewingbmachine and it forsy like the twin needle either. Have you ever figured out a good way to make it work? I had to buy special blue top Janome brand needles for seeing with knots as it was a skipped stitch disaster and it fixed the problem completely.
DeleteI sew with an old Nelco zig zag machine. My needles insert with flat side facing right. Would I be able to use a twin needle? Manual doesn't address double needles.
ReplyDeleteThank goodness someone pinned this on Pinterest! I've always loved the look, but have been to afraid to try. This blogpost and comments are super. Thank you sew much:)
ReplyDeleteDon't forget to change the stitch plate to one that you would use with a zig zag. Your straight stitch plate will not work for this!
ReplyDeleteMine doesnt like to work with twins :(
ReplyDeleteone line will be lively and the second will do like 3 stitches then not do anything then do another couple
Why has it taken me 15 years of sewing to discover a twin needle?!? Thank you, great blog, hemming everything in sight now :-)
ReplyDeleteMy twin needle worked great the first time but the second time I set it up the right hand side dosn't catch the bobin thread, please help what am I doing wrong
ReplyDeleteGot my twin needle and gave it a go - stupid me forgot to check the tension after my last project! Doh! Lots of excess threads underneath, rectified that and started unpicking as it was expensive fabric and foe - don't want to have to pay for extra as its only for a practice swim nappy for my little boy and don't want to keep paying out for practice fabric, as soon as I've unpicked the rest of the thread will try again x
ReplyDeleteI'm not sure what I'm doing wrong- but I don't get a zigzag on the back with mine, just a straight line. Hmmm...
ReplyDeleteDid you find a solution I am having the same problem
DeleteThank you so much, my daughter accidently tossed my machines manual and I wouldn't have attempted this without your post. I'm off to give it a go right now!
ReplyDeleteHi there
ReplyDeleteI have an old hand turn singer with bullit bobbin, does anyone know if this will take double needles?
Not unless you have a zig zag plate. The small round hole in the plates of most old machines are too small for a twin needle.
DeleteThe important thing is there is room for the twin needle to go through the striking plate - if your hand operated machine only has a single hole, then no, a twin needle won't work. I am sure your machine doesn't do zig-zag either -
ReplyDeleteThere is no such thing as twin needle function - as mentioned way up above somewhere! All electric sewing machines with a zig-zag stitch, can accommodate the twin needle. Check out Schmetzneedles.com. Twin needles come in both size of needle as we normally buy - as well as distance between the two needles - I prefer a 3 - 80/12. The 3 means millimetres between the two needles. Believe it or not Schmetz make all kinds of twin needles from hemstitch to metallic to others AND they make a triple needle as well.
Bernina suggest you thread one thread to the right of the tension disc and the other to the left of the disc and then as normal as far as the needle. The left thread goes through the needle catch and the right thread through the other catcher (what are they called?)
Try couching with your twin needle - but always TEST before you do and slowly had operate the zig-zag to see if it fits within the foot. I have a 5.5 width max for my zig-zag. I would set the width to 2.5 and TEST by hand operating.
Other point - you don't get zig-zag on the bobbin side as you only have one thread going between the two zigzags!!
Sorry to go on - but hey I teach itover here in UK and it is great fun to teach people - be brave gals - and enjoy!!!
If your bobbin loads from the left side and the needle threads from the left side, your machine probably will not take twin needles.
DeleteI bought a twin needle (3mm spacing) to use on my old Necci straight stitch/zig zag machine. BUT the machine is side-threading and the twin needle won't fit through the gap in the base plate. Does anyone know of a solution to these difficulties?
ReplyDeleteI can't see how this would work on a hem, as you have to sew it on the inside to be able to see that you are on the hem and not missing it in places - so you end up with the zig zags on the outside. I also don't think it's going to work on my Frister and Rossman (it IS a zig zag machine) because you thread the needle from the side, not the front, so the two needles would be one in front of the other instead of side by side.
ReplyDeleteThank you! I can never remember what to do (&too in the zone to go looking for my machine manual). the photographs are really helpful
ReplyDeleteI just tried using my twin needle for the first time, thanks for the hints! It gives a professional look to my table runner.
ReplyDeleteThank you for a great explanation. I was looking online for a similar idea and really appreciate it
ReplyDeleteThank you for a great explanation. I was looking online for a similar idea and really appreciate it
ReplyDelete